Guide To Fabrics And Sewing Techniques

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Guide To Fabrics And Sewing Techniques

Type

Fabric

Plain Seam Or

Edge Finish

Seam

Machine Needle

Size

Thread Type

And Weight

Sheer to lighweight

Gauze,voile,chiffon,organza, crepe de chine,fine lace, tulle,net,georgette

Stitched and pinked, zigzag

French,mock French, self-bound,double-stitched

9/65

Extra fine: silk.mercerized cotton,or cotton/polyester

Lightweight

Silk,shirtings,gingham,broadcloth,oxford cloth,calico,lightweight,linens,chambray,

seersucker,tricot,eyelet,challis,organdy,

muslin,batiste,dimity,lawn,pique'

Stitched and pinked, zigzag, selvage

French,mock French, self-bound

11/75

Extra fine: silk.mercerized cotton; all purpose cotton/polyester

Light to medium weight knits

Cotton knits, tricot cotton/polyester knite,jersey knits,light sweater knits,stretch terry,stretch velour

Zigzag,straight with overedge

Double-stitched, straight and zigzag, narrow zigzag, straight stretch, elastic stretch

14/19 Ballpoint

All-purpose: cotton/polyester or long-fiber polyester

Medium weight

Cotton.wool.wool flannel, rayon, linen and linen types, chintz, wool crepe, gabardine, chino, poplin, denim, corduroy, velvet, velveeteen, velour, taffeta, satin, double knits, sweatshirt knits

Stitched and pinked, zigzag,selvage turned and stitched, bound finishes

Welt, lapped, flat-fell, mock flat-fell

14/90 (Ball point for knits)

All-purpose cotton/polyester or long-fiber polyester or mercerized cotton

Medium weight / Suiting weight

Wool, wool blends, tweeds, flannels, gabardine, twill, mohair, boucle, heavy poplin, heavy denim, double knits, quilted fabric

Stitched and pinked, zigzag,selvage bound finishes

Welt, lapped, flat-fell, mock flat-fell

14/19 16/100

All-purpose cotton/polyester or mercerized cotton

Medium to heavy weight

Wool, wool blends, heavy wool flannel, fake fur, fleece, canvas, heavy cotton duck, coating, sailcloth, upholstery fabric

Stitched and pinked selvage

Welt, lapped, mock flat- fell

16/100 18/110

Heavy-duty: cotton or cotton/polyester; topstitching and buttonhole twist

No grain( Non-woven)

Leather, suede, reptile(natural and man made), buckskin, calfskin, plastic, felt

Welt, lapped mock flat- fell

14/90 16/100 Wedge-

point

All -purpose or heavy-duty (all types)