Every textile begins as fiber, and the first thing worth knowing about any fabric is which kind. The division is between natural fibers, which are harvested, and manufactured fibers, which are produced, and the boundary between them is less clean than it sounds.
Natural fibers
A natural fiber is one obtained from a plant, animal or mineral. The commercially important ones are cellulosic fibers from the seed hairs, stems and leaves of plants, protein fibers from the hair, fur or cocoons of animals, and the crystalline mineral asbestos.
Until manufactured fibers arrived near the beginning of the twentieth century, these were the only options. Linen and wool dominated home furnishings and apparel in temperate climates, and cotton in tropical ones.
Plant fibers, by part of the plant
- Husk fibers, such as coconut.
- Seed hairs, such as cotton.
- Bast or stem fibers, such as linen from the flax plant.
- Hard or leaf fibers, such as sisal.
Animal fibers, by source
- Hair, such as wool.
- Fur, such as angora.
- Secretions, such as silk.
Mineral fibers
The only important mineral fiber is asbestos, which has been banned from consumer textiles because it is carcinogenic.
The natural fabrics
Fabrics made from these fibers include cotton, wool, linen, silk, jute, ramie and hemp.
Synthetic and manufactured fibers
Synthetic or man-made fibers generally come from synthetic materials such as petrochemicals. Polyester, nylon and acrylic are the familiar examples.
The complication worth understanding
Not every manufactured fiber is synthetic. Several are made from natural cellulose, including modal, rayon and the more recently developed lyocell.
These occupy a genuine middle ground. The raw material is a natural plant product, but the fiber is manufactured rather than harvested, which is why they are described as manufactured rather than either natural or synthetic.
Two kinds of cellulose-based fiber
- Regenerated or pure cellulose, produced by processes such as the cupro-ammonium process. The cellulose is dissolved and reformed as fiber, but remains chemically cellulose.
- Modified or derivatized cellulose, such as the cellulose acetates. Here the cellulose is chemically altered, producing a fiber with different properties from the starting material.
Why the classification matters
It predicts behavior. Protein fibers such as wool and silk react to heat, alkali and moisture differently from cellulosic fibers such as cotton and linen, which is why wool felts and cotton does not, and why bleach that is safe on cotton destroys silk.
Knowing which group a fabric belongs to tells you how to wash it before you read a single care label.
Quick reference
| Group | Source | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Cellulosic natural | Plants | Cotton, linen, jute, ramie, hemp |
| Protein natural | Animals | Wool, silk, angora |
| Mineral natural | Minerals | Asbestos, banned in consumer textiles |
| Regenerated cellulose | Plant cellulose, manufactured | Rayon, modal, lyocell |
| Derivatized cellulose | Chemically modified cellulose | Acetate, triacetate |
| Synthetic | Petrochemicals | Polyester, nylon, acrylic |
Frequently asked questions
Is rayon natural or synthetic?
Neither exactly. It is a manufactured fiber made from natural cellulose, which places it between the two categories.
What is a bast fiber?
A fiber taken from the stem of a plant. Linen, from flax, is the main example.
Why is asbestos no longer used in textiles?
Because it is carcinogenic. It has been banned from consumer textiles.
What is the difference between regenerated and derivatized cellulose?
Regenerated cellulose is dissolved and reformed but stays chemically cellulose. Derivatized cellulose, such as acetate, is chemically altered into a different material.
See also our guide to fabrics and sewing techniques and silk fabric weaves.
