Shorts are a shortened version of trousers, worn over the pelvis and covering the upper thigh or as far as the knee, but never the full length of the leg. They can be worn as an outer garment or as an under layer.
They are no longer restricted to teenagers, and they are no longer dismissed by fashion editors. Shorts have become a wardrobe staple worn by women of every age and size, and while they are primarily casual, versions in dressier fabrics work perfectly well for evening.
The honest position on shorts is this: they were never designed to be elegant or refined. They belong to comfort clothing. What they can be is stylish, provided they are chosen carefully.
The four things that matter
Size
Wear shorts that fit. Not too tight and not too loose. There are a great many ways to get shorts wrong, and size is the first of them.
Length
Wear the length that suits your shape. Short shorts make legs appear longer. Knee-length shorts make thighs appear slimmer. Shorter lengths belong on the beach.
Material
Choose good materials such as cotton and silk. Avoid nylon and polyester, which bunch in the wrong places, and avoid anything transparent.
Proportion
The width of the shorts should be in proportion to your body. A straight cut suits almost every shape, which makes it the safe starting point.
General rules
- Keep them simple and straight, with no excess fabric. Extra volume reads as extra volume.
- Avoid extremes: too long, too short, too baggy, too tight, too bright or too plain.
- Match the hem to the cut. Wide-legged shorts look better with a longer hem; fitted shorts work at capri length or well above the knee.
- Solid colors read best, and monochrome works well. White, black, khaki and olive are the reliable choices.
- Choose larger prints. Abstract and graphic prints work. Tiny floral prints look childish.
- Nautical stripes work well, such as white shorts with blue and black stripes.
- Avoid embellishment. This is the most useful rule here. Shorts are small garments and there is no room for large pockets and applied decoration without the result looking overcrowded.
- Accessorize with narrow belts, blouses, drop earrings and handbags.
The reasoning behind the embellishment rule is worth stating. The point of wearing shorts is to show the legs. Over-decorated shorts draw attention to the garment instead, which defeats the purpose entirely.
The one pair that suits everyone
A basic long short with a straight cut works for any size and any body type. Pair it with flip-flops for daytime or round-toe pumps for an evening. If you own one pair of shorts, this is the pair.
Types of shorts
Bermuda, walking or dress shorts
Semi-casual short trousers, hemmed cuffed or uncuffed about an inch above the knee, worn by men and women alike. Always choose a straight cut.
These are not cargo shorts. A cargo short is baggier and considerably less tailored, and the difference matters.
Bermudas are the dressiest of the shorts family. In rich fabrics with good accessories they read as genuinely smart, and they pair with almost anything: a flowing top, a light jacket, high heels, wedges or flip-flops. Classic colors such as khaki, white, navy, black and yellow work best, lifted with colorful tops or accessories.
Avoid baggy versions, whose extra fabric adds bulk.
Hot pants or short shorts
Short, close-fitting shorts with an inseam of around two inches, made in cotton, nylon or other materials. They emphasize the buttocks and legs.
They also work as an under layer beneath tight jeans to shape the line. A looser fit rather than a fully form-fitting one reads as fresher and more modern.
Jean shorts, or jorts
Denim shorts covering the pelvis, buttocks and legs down to the knee, frequently made by cutting off an old pair of jeans. They can be cropped, hemmed or pleated at the knee, and usually carry two back and two side pockets.
They are comfortable, casual and hard-wearing. Experiment with different washes, since the wash is what distinguishes one pair from another.
Booty shorts
Cut short enough to reveal part of the buttocks.
Short suits
Increasingly popular, made in prints, colors, checks and with various detailing. Petite women should choose lengths above the knee. Large cuff work adds volume, which helps slimmer hips and legs. Pair with either heels or flats.
Mid-length shorts
Also called day shorts, golf shorts or classic shorts, with an inseam of around seven to eight inches.
These are the most practically useful length in the whole guide. They conceal shorter legs and cover the upper thigh, which makes them the safe choice when you want to wear shorts but not show a great deal of leg.
Knee-length shorts
Worth a warning. A knee-length hem cuts the leg visually in half, which makes shorter legs look shorter still.
Low-rise shorts
These suit pear and hourglass shapes best. Both carry weight at the hips with a leaner midsection, which is what a low rise needs to sit against.
Pleated shorts
Pleats add volume, so they work well on a thin or petite frame. Avoid them if you have fuller hips or thighs.
Choosing by shape
Fuller legs
- Bermudas work well.
- Choose wide knee-length shorts.
- Check that the shorts do not cut into the thigh when you sit down. This is the fit test that matters most and the one people forget to run.
- Looser shorts make the leg read smoother.
- Mid-length shorts reaching mid-thigh work well.
- Avoid small prints, light-colored denim and cargo shorts.
Slim legs
- Avoid hot pants and very short cuts, which accentuate slimness.
- Choose baggier shorts with seams just above the knee.
- Use light colors on the bottom half: beige, cream, tan or washed denim. Pair with a dark top for contrast.
Wide hips
- Choose shorter lengths, which put emphasis on the length of the leg rather than the width of the hip.
- Straight cuts.
- Slim-cut Bermudas with angled pockets and a low rise, which are designed for this shape.
- Avoid high-rise shorts, narrow tight-fitting shorts, and pleats, which add volume at the stomach and widen the hip further.
Narrow hips
- Lengths ending midway up the calf.
- Low-rise cuts.
- Pleats, which add the volume this shape benefits from.
- Pockets at the hip and back, which build out a lean lower half.
Shorts across occasions, ages and seasons
Occasions
Shorts cover almost every casual situation and work as a substitute for a short skirt. They suit weekends, shopping and parties. Silk versions read as dressier; hot pants belong on the beach.
A useful collection covers several styles: jogging shorts, long-legged shorts, boxer types, three-quarter pants, pedal pushers, clam diggers and short shorts.
Ages
Shorts are worn across every age group. They read as trend-led on younger women and as a statement of confidence on older ones.
Seasons
Shorts work almost all year except the coldest months. Cotton for summer, silk for dressier occasions, and in mild winter weather a cashmere layer on top works well. Choose the sweater length according to your hips and thighs.
Before you wear them
Shorts show your legs, so groom them first. Moisturize well to avoid dry patches showing, and wax rather than shave for a smoother finish.
Frequently asked questions
Which shorts suit every body type?
A basic long short with a straight cut. It works across sizes and shapes and dresses up or down with the shoes.
What is the difference between Bermudas and cargo shorts?
Bermudas are tailored and hemmed about an inch above the knee. Cargo shorts are baggier and considerably less tailored.
Why avoid knee-length shorts on short legs?
A knee-length hem cuts the leg visually in half, which shortens it further.
Why avoid embellished shorts?
Shorts are small garments with little room for decoration, and heavy detailing pulls attention to the garment rather than the legs.
Which shorts hide fuller thighs?
Mid-length shorts reaching mid-thigh, or wide knee-length Bermudas. Check they do not cut into the thigh when you sit.
See also body types and plus size clothing.
