An ankle strap shoe is any shoe, flat or heeled, that fastens with one or more straps around the ankle. It is one of the most recognizable shoe forms there is, and it comes with a specific visual effect that is worth understanding before buying a pair.
Ankle strap or ankle wrap
The two names describe different fastenings and are not interchangeable.
- Ankle strap. A fixed strap, or several, that buckles or clasps around the ankle. The strap is part of the shoe’s construction.
- Ankle wrap. Laces or ribbons attached to the shoe that are wrapped around the ankle and tied. The height and tightness are set by the wearer each time.
What ankle straps do to the leg line
This is the single most useful thing to know about the style, and it cuts both ways.
A strap that stops at the ankle draws a horizontal line across the leg, and the eye reads the leg as ending there. The visual effect is that the leg appears shorter. This is not a flaw in the design; it is simply what a horizontal band across a vertical line does.
The practical consequence is straightforward. Anyone shorter in height who wants to wear ankle straps should choose the very high heeled versions, because the added height offsets the shortening the strap introduces. Taller wearers have more room to wear flat and low ankle strap styles without the same trade-off.
Two more details help. A thin strap cuts the line less severely than a wide one, and a strap in a color close to your skin tone interrupts the leg far less than a contrasting one.
Toe shapes
Ankle strap shoes and sandals appear with any toe treatment, and the choice changes the character of the shoe considerably. Depending on the design, the same ankle strap construction can be built with peep toes, squared-off toes or pointed toes.
A pointed toe extends the visual line of the foot, which partly compensates for the strap. A squared-off toe does the opposite and reads as more grounded. A peep toe sits between the two and is the most common on evening styles.
Why the style persists
Ankle strap shoes and sandals add glamour and a distinct sex appeal to a look, and that is the reason they have never really left. The strap frames the ankle, which is a flattering place to draw attention, and it holds the foot securely in a way that a plain court shoe does not.
The form is a staple across the designer market, with Gucci and Oscar de la Renta among the names most associated with it.
Wearing them well
- Pair with a hemline that does not compete. A midi length ending near the calf plus an ankle strap creates two horizontal breaks in a short span of leg.
- Match the strap to the skin where possible. Nude and metallic straps read as far less interrupting than dark ones.
- Choose a slim strap if you are unsure. The narrower the band, the smaller the shortening effect.
- Check the strap position. A strap sitting slightly lower, closer to the joint, cuts the leg less than one sitting high on the ankle.
Frequently asked questions
Do ankle straps suit short legs?
They can, with a high heel and a slim strap. It is the combination that works, not the strap alone.
What is the difference between ankle strap and slingback?
A slingback strap crosses behind the heel only. An ankle strap goes all the way around the ankle above the heel.
Are ankle strap shoes more comfortable than courts?
Usually yes for security, since the strap stops the foot sliding forward in a heel. Comfort still depends on the heel height and the fit.
Can ankle straps be worn with trousers?
Yes, though the strap is largely hidden by a full-length trouser. The style shows to best effect with hemlines that leave the ankle visible.
